Patagonia - El Chaltén and Cerro Fitz Roy
After our grand experience at the Perito Moreno Glacier, we were more than ready to see what else the Andes had in store for us. Our next move was to El Chaltén, a small town nestled at the base of the highest peaks in the area. As you approach El Chaltén, the peak of Cerro (Mount) Fitz Roy grows on the distant horizon. The gothic cathedral-like peaks of Cerro Torre, and sister peaks, Cerro Adele and Cerro Doblado, soon reach for the sky. As you pass the entry signs for the Los Glaciares National Park, the town is just around the corner.
While we waited for check-in at our AirBnB, we checked out the park’s visitor center to see the unique flora and fauna that can be found within the park. Then we decided to take the two easiest hikes from the visitor’s center to the Los Cóndores and Las Águilas Miradores (viewpoints). Since these were short hikes, we decided just a few water bottles would be enough and this would be a great opportunity to have the kids carry one each. Colette was more than distraught about this concept. On the way up, she decided she hated hiking and she didn’t need the water anyway. She then convinced her very accommodating brother to carry her bottle for a bit. Finally, she tried protesting by sitting and saying she would go no farther until we would get far enough away that she would concede and run to catch up.
The hike up to the viewpoints is one of the shorter elevation gains in the area at 100m, but the views from atop Los Cóndores and Las Águilas Viewpoints were amazing. Once at the top, the moods shifted and the kids were happy to have made the trek. We were fortunate on this day that visibility was high and the skies were blue. Comparing the view to the Argentine National Parks map, we were able to clearly identify each of the major peaks in the area, and pick out some of the glaciers that give the park its name. There was a complete view of the town of El Chaltén, bounded on all sides by rivers or hills. With the sun setting in the early evening, the vibrant colors and shadows added depth to the entire panorama. In the end, the kids were not ruined by carrying their own water bottles, and ran the entire way back to the car.
The next morning we were ready to get out and see more, but the weather was not looking as favorable. We decided to save our top choice hike for the following day and set out on some shorter ventures.
Our first hike to the Cerro Torre Mirador started with a sandy uphill climb of 100m (330ft), where we came upon the view of a rocky meadow. With The Hobbit still fresh in our memories, the Murberts troupe felt as though we were in search of a dragon’s lair. Soon off to our left, we could see the Rio Fitz Roy far below a steep drop-off that had us gripping the children tight as we took in the sight. Further uphill, the shapes of the distant mountain peaks were coming into view in the distance, as well as the massive glaciers, Glaciar Grande and Glaciar del Torre. It was an amazing sight as we watched the low clouds and rain creep in to obscure our view. Fortunately, we were able to sit and enjoy a woodpecker capturing some lunch, follow a trickling stream as it wove in and out of the earth, and view the mountaintop with a picnic before we returned home in a hurry as the heavy rain started.
We returned home to a spot of lunch, yerba mate, and to wait out the weather during our siesta. We still had one more hike in us and decided to visit a nearby waterfall, Chorillo del Salto. This was one of the easiest hikes shown on the map for the North Zone, meaning it was relatively flat, but it gave great views of the Rio de las Vueltas valley. Jon used it as a great opportunity to point out how the valley was carved out by glacial activity, including one of the drumlins that sat adjacent to the river. The kids were amazed, not by what Jon was saying, but by the realization that were were looking at a map Kumandra, from Disney’s Raya and the Last Dragon.
We reached our destination at the Salto Chorillo and were in awe of the waterfall. Dotted around the bottom of the waterfall were two different groups of people: those climbing towards the falls to take photos, and others finding a nice rock to sit and enjoy the sight with their evening yerba mate. It was certainly the perfect site to sit, listen to the waterfall, and enjoy the peacefulness of the surroundings; even the kids were able to chill for a time. The waterfall was gorgeous and got us primed for our upcoming visit to Iguazu Falls in just a few days.
Luckily, our final day had perfect weather for our hike to Cerro Fitz Roy Mirador. This hike is one of the biggest reasons that people come to visit El Chaltén and this part of Patagonia. The trail winds up to the main viewpoint of Cerro Fitz Roy and loops around to see the glacial lake, Laguna Capri. The lunch in our pack would be earned as we had 2.5 miles of uphill walking to tackle with 1000 feet of elevation gain.
The trail had us hiking through an alpine forest for the most part. Sporadic boulders could be found along the way, but the best things to look out for were the small wildflowers along the edge of the trail and the various bees and butterflies that were fluttering across the trail. As an activity for the kids, we had them call out the sightings in Spanish. Immediately, Colette called out, “Mariposa! Naranja!” or “orange butterfly”. This earned her a Daddy Super High Five, which are still a highly valued item amongst this bunch. Soon afterwards, “Flora morada!” and “Mariposa blanca.” It added to the fun and taking-in of our hike up the mountain.
When we reached the viewpoint of Fitz Roy, we were taken aback by the view. It was as though the brightest spotlight in our world, the sun, was shining specifically on Fitz Roy. The mountain peak, a sharp rock reaching almost vertically, towers above everything else. It was captivating. We set up for our picnic lunch and imagined what it must have been like for the first explorers to have found this mountain; and even more mind boggling are the people that have dared to climb it.
After lunch and a few more photos of the vista, we moved towards Laguna Capri, all the while keeping Fitz Roy in our view. Laguna Capri was pristine and we all wished it was warmer so we could go for a swim. For all of us, we felt peace as we sat at the lakeside and took in our surroundings. Our reward for reaching our destination were alfajores that gave us a nice sugar boost for our return hike back down the mountain.
We bounded our way back down the trail. The girls found some special power stones on the path that granted them super speed. We got puzzled looks from those that were on their way up the hill, gasping for breath. Others cheered us on and hollered about how fuerte (strong) the kids were to have accomplished the hike. Some boulders slowed our descent as the kids tried to climb them. The sibling peer pressure had them pushing each other to the limits on how far they could reach and stretch themselves.
El Chaltén was an enchanting place. Despite the number of tourists we crossed, everyone was there to hike and enjoy the great outdoors just as we were. There was a general feeling of camaraderie as we encouraged strangers to walk another 10 minutes over the ridge or around the bend to catch a view of something amazing. We logged over 20 miles and over 2,500 ft in elevation gain over the three days we were in El Chaltén. As we prepared to say goodbye to all of Patagonia, we were worn out, but also would have liked to stay for more.
Goodbye, Patagonia. We hope to return.